Week 3 on the Pacific Crest Trail

By: Hayley Babbitt

Above: Saying goodbye to Rob Muir, California, USA. 2023 by Hayley Babbitt.

Day 17: 

Bright and early this morning, Rob Muir pulled up to the motel in his truck to graciously bring us back to trail. But not just any trail, the Black Mountain Road alternate trail. Due to the varying opinions on the level of safety on the PCT in this section around Mount San Jacinto, we decided to play it safe and take the alternate back to the PCT.

The comforting vibes in the truck ride back to trail make it hard to say goodbye. Luke and I thoroughly enjoyed Idyllwild and meeting good people like Rob makes us even more sad to go. In fact, Rob is such a good trail angel that he decided to surpass the other trail angels at the drop-off spot at the bottom of Black Mountain to take us further up. He told us that most people just get dropped off at the bottom since the road is moderately sketchy (which I found to be a generous description not even a mile up the road), but he wanted to save us as much trouble as possible - so he kept driving up.

Above: A view from Rob's truck on our way up Black Mountain Road, California, USA. 2023 by Hayley Babbitt.

The backroad up the mountain was one of the most sketchy dirt roads I've been on in my life - and at that point I have seen my fair share while doing van life and hitch hiking in the middle of nowhere. To add to Rob's good karma bucket (that has to be flowing over by now with all these good deeds of his), he managed to pick up and cram two other backpackers in the truck on the drive up as we saw them struggling to hike the seven mile incline to the top.

Rob pointed out a little hidden community of about 40 houses back in there that he helped build, which I found quite interesting. Despite having incredible views of the mountains, it took us a long 30 minutes to go 4 miles or so up the hill due to the road conditions. He took us right up to the snow and felt bad he couldn’t take us the extra three miles to the trailhead. What a sweet soul. I shed a single tear due to his kindness after he left, as I was fighting more tears while giving him a hug goodbye. I'll always remember Rob Muir.

Above: Rob Muir and his Black Mountain Road hitch-hikers parting ways on the PCT, California, USA. 2023 by Hayley Babbitt.

The snow was immediately rough to trek. My shoes were soaked within the first ten minutes of shuffling through. We climbed up a couple of miles to an amazing picnic spot and had an early lunch around 10:30am. The picnic spot was so beautiful that I had to bust out my drone, Mini Jet, of course.

Above: Luke, on our way to our picnic spot for the day, California, USA. 2023 by Hayley Babbitt.

Above: A drone shot of me, standing at the summit of Black Mountain, California USA. 2023 by Hayley Babbitt.

I was very excited about the descent ahead of us down the mountain… until I fell literally all day. Not even exaggerating, I probably fell five times, tripping over the loose rocks on the descent. I’m paying for it a bit now; all I can do is worry and pray that it’s better by morning. We still have about 5 miles down the mountain in the morning, and we hear it’s going to be in the 90s tomorrow… this being said, we are waking up at 4am to try to beat the heat.

Above: Mount San Jacinto views from the PCT featuring Luke, California, USA. 2023 by Hayley Babbitt.

It's going to be hard getting ready in the dark and so early, so I’m going to crash now. Oh, one more thing: we saw Tiki Bird Tracy aka Condor again and she’s cowboy camping right next to us tonight. What a coincidence, I love seeing "regulars" (other thru-hikers) on the trail. Goodnight from a sore, tired, and trying to be hopeful Jet.

Other note: We met Captain Jack (we dubbed) aka Layla on our descent and she helped a lot with going down in the snow. She told us a thrilling story about how she bailed after just missing death with her ice axe on the route we skipped. Sounds like we made the right choice!

Above: Captain Jack in the snow, California, USA. 2023 by Hayley Babbitt.

Day 18:

13 miles. Today, Johnny became a true trail angel. Not that he hasn't been a trail angel, having dropped us off at the Mexican border and hosting us pre-PCT, but today would be his first experience coming to the trail to give us trail magic. We even gave him the name “Shakey” for a trail angel name. Not because he shakes, but because he treated Luke, Condor, and I to shakes at In-N-Out in the afternoon. We all love those shakes. But let me start back in the morning.

I woke up relieved that my foot didn’t hurt (that) bad, and was ready to push the 5 miles downhill before the alleged heat wave was full force (90 degrees!). We didn’t wake up as early as we could or should have, but we were on trail by around 6:30am which was OK.

The first thing we did was race down the mountain to find Tiki Bird Tracy at the water spigot below. After procrastinating for too long to avoid giving up our sliver of heat and water, we set off with Condor to the I-10 bridge - the first place we could stop for refuge after this blistering section.

After we got going toward the bridge, I gave my tío Johnny a call on the chance he might be able to meet us under the bridge on I-10 to take us into Cabazon; and he accepted. Johnny is too generous, and I am eternally grateful for him. Our newfound morale boost thanks to Johnny gave us the push for the next 3.5 miles (all sandy and frying in the heat) to under the bridge of the interstate.

The first couple of miles weren't that bad, as it was flat enough to get a nice cruise going. As for the last 1.5 miles... it was a total mind game. We distracted ourselves the best we could by discussing random things, like AI. Now being able to see the bridge just under a mile away, the distant appearance of the bridge was like a mirage. It felt like forever the closer we got.

Above: Me, trying to take a nap under the I-10 bridge in Cabazon, California, USA. 2023 by Luke Baum.

When we finally got to the I-10 bridge, we all chilled hard there for a while with some other hot hikers and enjoyed the water and cool beverages left there by trail angels. Before we knew it, Johnny pulled right up underneath the bridge, and we jumped in with our friend Condor. I still can’t get over how kind Johnny is and how big of a heart he has; he truly is happy just helping people.

First thing's first: In-N-Out. And it was God-sent. The In-N-Out cheeseburger I had in Cabazon made me feel as if I was having a cheeseburger for the first time (I've had way too many cheeseburgers in my life, so that's saying something). Hanging with tío Johnny, Luke, and Condor at the In-N-Out was just what I needed, and provided a short relief back in "society".

Above: The Cabazon In-N-Out, Cabazon, California, USA. 2023 by Hayley Babbitt.

We then went to a Spanish supermarket and then to a gas station to get some resupply, as well as picked at all the things Johnny brought us that we left with him. We ended our time by going back to In-N-Out for shakes, and then it was time to say goodbye. When Johnny dropped us off back under the bridge, another hiker asked him if he could have a ride in town as well; of course Johnny said yes. He’s now an official trail angel and the best one there is.

Above: My friend Condor, at the beginning of our evening hike out of Cabazon, California, USA. 2023 by Hayley Babbitt.

Condor, Luke, and I stayed and chilled under the bridge for a few hours until 7pm, when we left for our first official night hike. It was comforting having Condor with us, and talking made the time in the night go by fast. Now it’s 9:48pm, and we are all in our tents. We gained about an extra 4 miles in the night, but we planned on 9. Tracy’s stomach starting hurting, so we pitched camp early at the Wind Farm. Even though we didn't go that far, I found nothing wrong with that for a first night hike. Although I was feeling especially strong during the night and felt I could have done the miles easier rather than in the heat of the day.

Above: A PCT trailhead that greeted us at the start of our night hike out of Cabazon, California, USA. 2023 by Hayley Babbitt.

We have a supposedly sucky, steep climb early in the morning, so I’ll get to bed now. Oh, one last thing that’s exciting, a bit of a morale boost! We are all looking forward to the Airbnb that we are sharing in Big Bear City on Monday (today is Friday). We have a grueling few days coming up, but there's a hot tub in sight at the finish line. Let’s get some rest now! Goodnight after a good day. And thank you forever, Johnny. -Jet

Day 19:

Above: The morning view of the White Water River, White Water Preserve, California, USA. 2023 by Hayley Babbitt.

13 miles. We started from the wind farm business in the morning after I discovered a cooler full of bottles of water, which was God sent. The morning climb was fairly easy, but we followed Condor very slowly up the ascent. The views were beautiful, and I got to call my folks on the top where I had cell service.

Above: A devilishly hot scene from our hike along the White Water River, California, USA. 2023 by Hayley Babbitt.

With a cool river in sight, we pushed through the hot morning to get to the Whitewater River. There was barely any shade near the river and it was blistering. It amazes me how a white water rushing river could just exist in the barren desert. After taking an hour or two break there, we decided to test out the heat and go a couple miles up to another part of the river. When we got to this part of the river, there were other hikers sitting in the shade along the banks. Tracy was very overheated so we stopped here until the afternoon.

Above: Our break spot along the White Water River, California, USA. 2023 by Hayley Babbitt.

Another night hike was upon us. I took a nap for the majority of the time at the second river spot. At this point I was irritated and tired, probably because we did some slow night hiking and didn’t get very far. I don’t know how we will make it to Big Bear at a decent time on Monday unless we hitch before Highway 18.

The night hike was fine after making our way across the Whitewater River. And let me tell you: that river crossing was sketchy. It took us probably a half an hour to find a point in the river that even looked remotely possible to cross at. Some other backpackers far away on the other side tried to motion to us where to go, but we didn't understand their European body language. They end up leaving and we end up continuing to frantically poke our trekking poles in random spots up and down the river. The story we had heard earlier in the day, about the woman that got swept down the river only hours ago and had to be medevaced, started swimming in my head.

Above: Condor, posing victoriously while watching the beautiful sunset, after surviving the White Water River crossing, California, USA. 2023 by Hayley Babbitt.

After finally making our cross maybe a quarter mile up river, and most notably after Luke had to watch both Condor and I almost have heart attacks while fighting every fiber in our beings to not slip and get swept down river, we prepared ourselves for the night hike ahead. Getting up and over the first little foothill gave us one of the most beautiful sights so far on the PCT, which was a great start. As the sun was setting at that moment, I stopped to take a few pictures of the landscape, and we waved goodbye to Mount San Jacinto and started our nighttime climb. Those very photos are some of my favorite I have taken on the PCT.

Above: The glorious sunset after crossing the White Water River, California, USA. 2023 by Hayley Babbitt.

I was feeling good and strong, enjoying the night hike, but Condor didn't end up liking it again, despite playing her sea shanties on our speaker. Luke and I were a little bit bummed, but empathized with Condor's dislike of the conditions. It was rough to have to stop early again, but at least we managed a handful of miles rather than stopping back at that spot on the other side of the river we chilled at all day. It’s now 10:55, and we gotta be on trail by 6:30, so I’ll hit the hay now. Goodnight. Miss you, Scout.

Day 20:

Above: A boundary posting for the San Gorgonio Wilderness, California, USA. 2023 by Hayley Babbitt.

12-13 miles. As much as we’ve been talking about “crushing miles", the last few days have fell short of our ideal mileage. The blistering heat has just been too much to hike through during the day, but today it was more tolerable. Condor has also been having a bit of a harder time than Luke and I, and at times it's hard on all of us because of the difference in pace.

I hope we can get a ride tomorrow at a decent time from Onyx Summit, since I know it’s not the ideal place to hitch a ride to Big Bear. Since we fell short of our original hitch spot (there is no way we will make it), we had to choose a different hitch spot to make sure we get to our Airbnb in time. Not ideal, but as much as it upsets me we aren't making the miles, I won't let it get in between me and a good time in the hot tub. I also worry that we fell a few miles short today, which means we have 15.3 miles to go tomorrow, and FAST, as well as making the hike down to the interstate to hitch (which who knows how long that is…). This being said, I'm making sure that we are on trail by 4:45am tomorrow. Sharp.

The last few days haven’t been super hard for me, but I know that the San Gorgonio Wilderness section is tough on most people out here, including my hiking partners Condor and Luke. Luke is getting back pains and really feeling the miles on his body since we made our descent in the snow a few days ago. Condor has been talking about how grueling the climb to Big Bear is and Luke agrees. Condor's slow pacing the last few days and the (mostly) gradual climb hasn’t beaten me up too much, thankfully, and the long breaks get me well rested. Anyways, I have to go to sleep now to make sure we cover 15+ miles tomorrow quickly for our rest’s sake at the Airbnb. Goodnight.

Above: My camping set-up for the night, Pacific Crest Trail, California, USA. 2023 by Hayley Babbitt.

Day 21:

Above: A sign for the Mission Springs Trail Camp, Sand to Snow National Monument, California, USA. 2023 by Hayley Babbitt.

13 miles? It’s been hard to keep track of mileage the last few days as we’ve been going so slow and hiking all day long. Today we hit our slowest pace, due to the snow patches and detour on the last climb. It was pretty gnarly in some spots. Waking up at 3:45am was a struggle, and now here I am, still up at the Airbnb at 10:53pm.

Above: (Left to right) Luke, myself, and Condor striking a pose. 2023 by Hayley Babbitt.

Tracy was freaked out by the snow today, and with valid reason in her defense. It was pretty sketchy, and everyone made a bailout route to the dirt road below at the final stretch. Walking in slush after noon was no fun, and we hit a few post holes (not too deep, thankfully). We got to use our spikes for the first time which was a new experience.

Above: My first time wearing my spikes on the PCT, California, USA. 2023 by Hayley Babbitt.

All three of us were feeling pretty beat toward the end of our journey for the day, which would be at a random road called "Rainbow Road" for our early hitch to Big Bear City, California. Luke, somehow, mustered up the the strength to make a good push to the hitch spot, and I stayed behind with Condor for moral support. It took Condor and I significantly longer to get to Rainbow Road, about an hour or so longer for just those last few miles, while Luke and our poor trail angel driver waited for us all that time.

To be fair, despite feeling good and strong and more than capable of getting to Rainbow Road in decent time, I felt Condor's pain immensely within the last mile. I don't know what happened, but I all of a sudden felt great physical pain and exhaustion within that last mile, it was like I was crawling to the finish line. My ankle that I had twisted all those times just days ago is catching up with me now. But seeing our trail angel's SUV across the road from the PCT was all worth it.

Above: Our trail angel of the day, Tiana Burkhammer, ready to take us dirty backpackers into civilization, California, USA. 2023 by Hayley Babbitt.

Tiana, our trail angel and transportation into Big Bear, is such a sweet woman with a big heart. She even offered for us to stay in her home. She is new to trail angel-ing, and told us with much excitement about how she discovered the PCT in the first place. She told us about how she had seen this young lady with a backpack walking alongside of the road one time, picked her up, and then learned about the trail. Ever since that encounter, she has invested much of her personal time and efforts into helping PCT hikers. Thank you, Tiana.

Above: Trail angel Tiana Burkhammer, Big Bear City, California, USA. 2023 by Hayley Babbitt.

After Tiana dropped us off at our Airbnb, it was finally time to catch up on some well-needed rest and check out the hot tub, of course. The Airbnb was very nice, spacious, and perfect for the three of us tired dirty, thru-hikers. It was our little paradise for a couple of days. To kick off our mini stay-cation, we headed several blocks into town to get some food for the place.

Above: Our Airbnb in Big Bear City, California, USA. 2023 by Hayley Babbitt.

On our way back to the Airbnb from our food shopping, that is when I realized that something could seriously be up with my left ankle and foot. Walking the last few blocks down our street to the Airbnb, the pain in my feet felt excruciating. After limping all the way back to the house, all I could do was worry about my injuries and hope they would magically go away by the time we headed back out on trail.

Above: The hot tub at the Airbnb in Big Bear City, California, USA. 2023 by Hayley Babbitt.

I’m so tired I can barely write about the rest of the day. At least we are at the Airbnb now, and we had $80 pizza, a salad and breadsticks (and a cookie skillet) for dinner. I am pooped, to say the least. The last couple of days was rough, but at least I can sleep in (in a real bed) and rest my left foot.

Now we are watching Pirates of the Caribbean and I’m ready for sleep. Goodnight from Big Bear City.

Day 22:

Zero day number one. Today is the first zero day that felt like one. We stayed at our Airbnb in Big Bear City all day long, so my foot got plenty of rest. We just used the hot tub, watched Pitch Perfect, and then Star Wars in the afternoon. Besides this though, we arranged some last minute plans with Johnny.

Above: The living room in our Airbnb in Big Bear City, California, USA. 2023 by Hayley Babbitt.

Due to the snow storm coming to Big Bear, we decided to change our route to SOBO (south bound) from Tehachapi back down to here (Rainbow Road, mile 250). We are all feeling done with the snow, even though we haven't been in too much of it. To wait it out and get some more rest, Johnny is picking us up from the Airbnb tomorrow and we are staying with him until Saturday (would be Friday, but he insisted we stay another day since he has a surprise of some sort for us on Friday). He’s too sweet. I hope the surprise isn’t too big, he’s done so much already. But he sounds so excited about his surprise on Friday, he even changed plans around of his own to be able to have us until then.

It’s going to feel weird taking 4 zero days this soon, but after three weeks of backpacking and now having a foot injury, it will be fine. We just better enjoy these zero days, since we will be cutting back on them in the near future. For now, I’ll just try to enjoy these upcoming days off as much as I can, and I’m very excited to stay with Johnny and Julie even if it feels so early. Plans are always changing out here. Goodnight.

Day 23:

Zero day number one with Johnny. We said our goodbyes to Tracy as we dropped her off at the mini mart in town (Big Bear City). From there, we had a long ride back to Johnny’s over the mountain.

When we got back to his place, it was instant relief. Even Johnny’s presence is relaxing. I know I’m in good hands when I’m with him. Knowing that we would be there for 3 nights was also easing to my mind, and I noted from the start to relish in every minute of this last minute mini vacation.

Above: The Tacos Santa Cruz food truck in Rowland Heights, California, USA. 2023 by Hayley Babbitt.

We chilled out all day, and waited for Julie to get back home from work so we could all go together to the taco trucks down the road for dinner. The food trucks were amazing, and I ended up getting a giant burrito that I could only manage to eat half of. I also got a Nutella and cocoa-puff crepe to share with everyone from another one of the trucks.

Above: Luke, enjoying his tacos from Tacos Santa Cruz, Rowland Heights, California, USA. 2023 by Hayley Babbitt.

When we got back home, we washed up and put on the movie The Pope’s Exorcist. I had been really looking forward to seeing the movie, since it has Russel Crowe in it (and it’s a horror movie), and the fact that it was released right after we got on trail. It was a pretty good movie. Then it was time for sleep. Goodnight and thank you, Johnny.

Day 24:

Zero day number two with Johnny. Sleeping in felt too good. Johnny’s place is now like a second home to me, and I can’t even describe how comfortable I feel in his home. Although I was dreading going out to resupply, it was a successful (and expensive) trip. We started by going to REI, where I bought a new Sawyer filter (RIP to the one I lost in Whitewater River) and a new pair of spandex shorts. After that, we went to Stater Bros to resupply food and then to the Asian market for some ramen.

Above: Ramen and pot stickers from a local ramen restaurant in Rowland Heights, California, USA. 2023 by Hayley Babbitt.

Once we were done with the shopping trip, we waited for Julie to come home so we could go out to eat at a ramen restaurant. In all honesty… I think I like the cheap ramen better but that’s probably because I’m so picky. But it wasn’t bad. When we got home, we watched the new movie Renfield, which we all liked. It was very funny and gory, which is a good mix for me. Then we went to bed. Goodnight from a happy, relaxed Jet.